I like it, when things look good, and I think that both single and double welt pockets look really good. They’re kind of classy, right? :)
Warning – TONS of pictures! :D
I made a pair of skewed single welt pockets in my latest jacket:
Yes, I know I am beautiful and badass! ;P
I took pictures while making the pockets, so I’ll share them here with you – and you can be as badass as me! :P
Here we go…
You can make your own pattern, or you can use the Single Welt Pocket Pattern, that I have made for this tutorial’s purpose. The seam allowance is HALF the width of the welt. I’ve made the welt to be 2,5, so the seam allowance is therefore 1,25.
Uh, I didn’t draw the pocket outline as a pattern in itself – but if you use the BOTTOM part of the welt pattern WITHOUT the seam allowance! THAT’s what you should mark on your jacket/dress/pants/fabric. :)
Start out by marking where your pocket should be on your jacket/dress/pants or just a piece of fabric on the wrong side of the fabric.
Then baste all around, so you can see it from the right side of the fabric.
Like this! :D
Ok – here’s a picture of my messy pocket pieces. I cut two of each, but you decide if you want to make only one, of course. :)
The pocket facing on the top left, the two, already ironed welt on the top right. The big pocket piece to the lower left, and the small pocket piece on the lower right.
Here you can see where the facings are going. Onto the big pocket pieces on the right side. My fabric didn’t fray, so I didn’t serge or zigzag the bottom of the facing. I would do it, though, if it did fray.
See – no fraying. :) I sewed the stitch really close to the edge at the bottom, and just within the seam allowance all around.
The matching pieces lying near each other… just to show how they’re paired up.
Now get ready! Take your welt, and mark with pins where your stitching line is.
And pin it to the BOTTOM part of the basted pocket outline, right side DOWN – so the corners meet. Does it make sense?
Add the SMALL pocket piece, also right side DOWN – matching the seam allowance as well.
When both are pinned on – turn your jacket/dress/pants/fabric over, so you can see the basting, and sew the bottom line here! Yes – exactly where I am pointing! :D
See – this is exactly where I pointed it… (actually the opposite corner – but STILL the bottom line! :)
From the right side it should now look like this! It’s important that you follow your basting exactly, to get the best result. Because the pattern is made to fit.
Now mark with pins where the stitching line is on your BIG pocket part. The one with the facing on. :) …..I’m thinking facial now…. hmm…
Pin it right side DOWN – yes, it’ll be skewed – on the TOP basted pocket line.
See – The pin touches the corner of the basted pocket outline.
Now sew the TOP pocket line – exactly on top of the basted line.
It should look like the on the inside…
And like this on the outside…
Now on the wrong side of your fabric (I’ll just call it fabric now), you draw the cut up lines as shown.
And you cut the fabric! But be careful not to cut the pocket pieces on the other side. ONLY cut the fabric.
And now you can remove the basting, if you want to. I did. :D
See how it looks from the outside.
Now turn your pocket pieces inside through the hole.
Here you can still see the “sidecuts” out…. tuck them in as well.
See how pretty?! :D You’re almost done.
If you hold the side tucks and turn the side over on your piece of fabric, you can see the tucks on the inside. And your pocket pieces should be aligned pretty neatly too.
Pin the side tuck to the pocket pieces – making sure it looks good on the right side – I pin exactly where I want my stitching to be, and then I remove the pin while I sew.
Do the same on the other side of the pocket – still making sure it looks wonderful on the right side.
Now since your pocket is neatly aligned, you might as well pin around that as well – Pin the two pocket pieces together. :)
ALMOST done with you skewed single welt pocket! Now sew all around, starting by the 1st side tuck, and ending by the other.
(Here I am sewing around the pocket pieces.. tadaa….)
BEAUTIFUL!!! Ok – I didn’t use the exact pattern I’ve added here, because it had to fit in a pretty small jacket. :)
Here are my two pretty skewed single welt pocket! What do you think? Want to see more pictures of the finished jacket? Go to my blog post about the little jacket here. :)
The front and the back of the pocket. If you don’t have a lining, then you can advantageously serge or zigzag the edge of the pocket. I have lining in my jacket, so I didn’t think it was necessary.
Beautifully ironed! :)
Now your Single Welt Pocket is done! Now you can make everything look really tailored, eh. ;)
What did you think of the tutorial? Was it easy enough to follow – I remember when I learned to make this pocket at the school, it took some time, and a couple of trials. It’s not the easiest of pockets, because it’s easy to turn pocket pieces the wrong way.
But I really do hope that this single welt pocket tutorial will make it simple enough to make them. :)
Well – Thank you for reading this far. :) I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.
kisses – Parnuuna